By Rick Tenison
Marion County Master Gardeners

Why Onion Type Matters
Onions form bulbs based on day length, not temperature. Choosing the correct type is the single most important factor for success.

​Short-Day Onions

• Start bulbing at 10–12 hours of daylight
• Best for the South and lower Midwest
• Produce bulbs earlier in the season
• Excellent choice for Marion County

Intermediate-Day Onions

• Start bulbing at 12–14 hours of daylight
• Work well in the middle of the country​
• Slightly later harvest than short-day
• ​Also a good option for Marion County

​Long-Day Onions

• Require 14–16 hours of daylight
• Best for northern states
• In Arkansas, they often fail to bulb properly
• Not recommended here

Why Winter Sowing Works So Well in Marion County
Marion County sits in USDA Zone 7, which means:

• We reliably receive cold periods that help break seed dormancy.
• Winter temperatures fluctuate enough to trigger natural germination cues.
• Spring warms early enough for winter sown seedlings to be ready for transplant by late March or April.

Winter sowing can save gardeners space, time, and electricity. It also produces tough, climate adapted seedlings that transition easily into Ozark soils.

Best Seeds for Winter Sowing in Marion County
​Some seeds thrive under winter sowing conditions while others are better started indoors. The lists below highlight what performs especially well in our area.

Perennial Flowers That Winter Sow Well
Perennials often require a cold period to germinate, which makes them excellent candidates for winter sowing.

• Coneflowers (Echinacea)
• Black eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Milkweed (all native species)
• Coreopsis
• Shasta Daisy
• Yarrow
• Gaillardia
• Bee Balm (Monarda)
• Hardy Salvias

Winter sowing native perennials is one of the easiest ways to build pollinator gardens for spring.

Cool Season Vegetables
These crops handle freeze and thaw cycles and sprout when the weather warms.

• Kale
• Cabbage
• Broccoli
• Cauliflower
• Collards
• Spinach
• Lettuce
• Swiss Chard
• Mustard greens
• Peas

Many of these will sprout early and give you a head start for spring.

Herbs That Winter Sow Well

• Oregano
• Thyme
• Sage
• Chives
• Parsley
• Lavender
• Mint
• Lemon balm

Annual Flowers That Perform Well

• Snapdragons
• Pansies and Violas
• Calendula
• Larkspur
• Sweet Peas
• Bachelor’s Buttons
• Marigolds planted in late winter
• Petunias
• Cleome
• Nigella

Ornamental Grasses

• Little Bluestem
• Big Bluestem
• Sideoats Grama
• Switchgrass
• Prairie Dropseed
• Mexican Feather Grass

Seeds That Are Not Recommended for Winter Sowing
​Some seeds prefer warm soil and more stable temperatures. These are better started indoors in Marion County.

• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Eggplant
• Basil
• Cucumbers
• Squash
• Melons
• Okra

Some gardeners experiment with late winter sowing in February for tomatoes or peppers, but success is inconsistent.

When to Winter Sow in Marion County
​You can begin winter sowing anytime after Christmas. A simple guideline is below:

• December and January Native plants, perennials, hardy annuals
• Late January through February Cool season vegetables and most herbs
• February Flowers that do not need deep cold such as marigolds and snapdragons
• Early March Tender annuals, although results vary

How to Winter Sow: Simple Step by Step

1. Choose your container
   Milk jugs, two liter bottles, salad containers, or clear totes all work.
2. Cut and vent
   Cut a hinge in the jug if using one
   Drill drainage holes on the bottom and ventilation holes near the top.
3. Add soil
   Use three to four inches of quality potting mix rather than garden soil.
4. Sow seeds
   Follow packet depth instructions. Many perennials prefer to be surface sown.
5. Water well
   Soil should be moist but not soggy.
6. Seal the container
   Use duct tape or clips and keep vents open.
7. Set the containers outside
   Choose a spot with sunlight and normal exposure to rain and snow.
8. Let nature do the work
   Seeds will germinate as temperatures warm.

Why Marion County Gardeners Love Winter Sowing

• It is inexpensive.
• No lights or indoor space are needed.
• It is perfect for starting large quantities of plants for swaps or our Master Gardener spring sales.
• Seedlings are hardy and resilient because they germinate outdoors.
• It follows the natural germination cycle of many Ozark native plants.

Final Thoughts
​Winter sowing is a low stress, high reward method that fits beautifully with our climate in the Arkansas Ozarks. Whether you want pollinator friendly perennials, cool season vegetables, or long lasting herbs, this technique helps you grow strong, healthy plants without the challenges of indoor seed starting.
​
If you try winter sowing this year, share your progress and photos with the Marion County Master Gardeners. We enjoy seeing the creative containers, successful seedlings, and the beautiful gardens they grow into.

As the temperatures drop and the days grow shorter, many gardeners reach for their rakes and pruning shears, ready to tidy up for winter. But before you bag up those leaves or cut back every plant, it’s worth asking — is a spotless garden really the healthiest choice for your landscape?
​
This fall, consider a gentler approach: leaving the leaves and seed heads where they naturally fall. Not only does this reduce your workload, it also supports the complex ecosystem living right in your own backyard.

Why “Messy” Gardens Are Healthier Gardens

​When we rake, bag, and haul off every leaf, we remove a crucial layer of habitat and nutrients. In nature, fallen leaves decompose slowly, feeding the soil and sheltering countless small creatures. By mimicking this natural process, we help our gardens thrive year after year.

“A little garden mess today means a healthier, more balanced garden tomorrow.”

​Benefits of Letting Nature Do the Work:

• Leaf litter feeds the soil. As leaves break down, they enrich the soil with organic matter, improving texture, drainage, and moisture retention. Earthworms and microbes feast on this material, turning it into natural fertilizer.
• Pollinators find winter homes. Many native bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects overwinter in leaf litter, hollow stems, and seed heads. Cleaning up too soon can destroy these hidden refuges.
• Birds benefit from seeds and shelter. Leaving flower heads from coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and ornamental grasses provides a vital winter food source for songbirds — and adds beautiful texture to your winter garden.

 Meet the Hidden Garden Helpers

Your “messy” garden isn’t abandoned — it’s alive!
Under those leaves, you’ll find:

• The pupae of swallowtail and fritillary butterflies
• Lady beetles waiting out the cold
• Solitary bees tucked into hollow stems

Even toads, lizards, and small mammals rely on leaf litter for warmth and protection through the winter months. These quiet corners of your garden become vital sanctuaries during cold weather.

A Balanced Approach to Fall Cleanup

ou don’t have to choose between beauty and biodiversity. A few small changes can keep your garden looking cared-for while still supporting nature’s cycle:

• Rake leaves off the lawn to prevent smothering, but move them under shrubs, trees, or into beds as mulch.
• Chop large, matted leaves with your mower to speed up decomposition.
• Leave seed heads on native perennials until late winter — trim them just before new growth emerges.
• Create a “wild corner.” Dedicate one area of your yard to natural decomposition and wildlife shelter.

“Nature doesn’t waste anything — and neither should we.”

Come Spring, Nature Rewards Patience

By resisting the urge to over-clean this fall, you’re investing in:

• Healthier, more fertile soil
• Stronger plants
• More pollinators and beneficial insects
• A balanced garden ecosystem that sustains itself

When spring arrives, your patience will bloom right along with your flowers.
So this year, put down the rake a little sooner and let nature handle the cleanup. Your garden — and the creatures that call it home — will thank you.

Marion County Master Gardeners
Helping gardeners grow knowledge, community, and native beauty.

Ditch lilies (Hemerocallis fulva),  (aka tawny daylily, orange daylily, tiger lily) is native to China, Japan and Korea and was introduced to North America in the early 19th century. They spread via seed and a network of tuberous roots, and can reproduce and proliferate from a small fragment left behind during removal. Those vibrant orange daylilies that pepper roadsides and abandoned lots, are a familiar sight in many regions. Their bright blooms and hardy nature make them seem like a gardener’s dream—low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, and practically indestructible. But beneath their cheerful facade lies a host of problems that can turn a well-meaning planting into a landscaping nightmare. Here’s why ditch lilies might not be the carefree addition to your garden you thought they were.
​
1. Invasive Tendencies
Ditch lilies are notorious for their aggressive spread. Originally introduced from Asia to North America as ornamental plants, they’ve escaped cultivation and naturalized in many areas, earning their “ditch” moniker for thriving in neglected spaces. Their thick, tuberous roots form dense mats that can choke out native plants and disrupt local ecosystems. In some regions, they’re considered invasive, outcompeting grasses, wildflowers, and even small shrubs for space, water, and nutrients. If you plant them in your yard, you might soon find them taking over areas you didn’t intend, spreading far beyond their original bed. Considered an invasive perennial in the Mid-Atlantic region by the US Fish & Wildlife Service and the National Park Service, the common daylily naturalizes in the wild and displaces our native plants.​

​2. Difficult to Eradicate
Once ditch lilies take hold, good luck getting rid of them. Their robust root systems are a gardener’s nightmare—digging them up feels like unearthing a network of stubborn cables. Miss even a small piece of root, and they’ll sprout back with a vengeance. Herbicides can work, but they often require multiple applications and can harm nearby plants or soil health. For organic gardeners, removal is a backbreaking, multi-season ordeal, making ditch lilies a commitment you might regret.

3. Limited Bloom Time
While their flowers are undeniably striking, ditch lilies have a short bloom period—typically a few weeks in early summer. Each flower lasts only a day (hence the name “daylily”), and once the show is over, you’re left with a mass of strappy, sprawling foliage that can look messy if not maintained. Unlike modern daylily cultivars bred for extended bloom times or repeat flowering, ditch lilies offer a brief performance followed by months of uninspiring greenery.

4. Competition with Other Plants
Ditch lilies don’t play well with others. Their dense growth habits make them poor companions for more delicate perennials or plants that need breathing room. They’ll crowd out neighbors, monopolizing resources and creating monocultures in your garden. If you’re aiming for a diverse, balanced landscape, ditch lilies can throw everything off-kilter, turning your carefully planned beds into an orange takeover.

5. Aesthetic Monotony
Let’s talk looks. While some gardeners love the rustic charm of ditch lilies, others find their uniformity boring. Unlike hybrid daylilies, which come in a rainbow of colors, shapes, and sizes, ditch lilies are stuck in one gear: orange. Their predictable appearance can feel one-dimensional, especially in gardens where variety and texture are priorities. If you’re after a dynamic design, these lilies might feel like a missed opportunity.

6. Potential for Misidentification
For foragers or wildlife enthusiasts, ditch lilies pose another issue: they’re sometimes confused with edible plants like cattails or true lilies, which can lead to accidental ingestion. While ditch lilies aren’t highly toxic, they’re not edible either—eating them can cause stomach upset in humans and pets. Their prevalence in wild areas increases the risk of mix-ups, especially for those unfamiliar with plant identification.

Alternatives to Ditch Lilies
If you love the idea of daylilies but want to avoid the pitfalls of ditch lilies, consider modern cultivars like ‘Stella d’Oro’ or ‘Happy Returns’, which offer longer blooms, varied colors, and less aggressive growth. Native plants like black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) or coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) can also bring vibrant color and resilience to your garden while supporting local pollinators and ecosystems.

Final Thoughts
Ditch lilies may seem like an easy win for a low-maintenance garden, but their invasive nature, relentless spread, and limited appeal make them a risky choice. Before planting, weigh the long-term consequences against their fleeting charm. A little research now can save you years of battling an orange invasion. For gardeners looking to create sustainable, diverse landscapes, there are far better options that won’t leave you digging up regrets.

Have you dealt with ditch lilies in your garden? Share your tips for managing them—or your favorite alternatives—in the comments!

Starting seeds indoors is a rewarding way to kick off the gardening season, but before your seedlings can thrive outdoors, they need to be properly acclimated to the elements. This process, called hardening off, gradually introduces tender seedlings to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations. Done right, it ensures your plants are strong and ready to flourish. Here’s a step-by-step guide to hardening off seedlings effectively.

What Is Hardening Off?
Hardening off is the process of transitioning seedlings from the controlled, sheltered environment of your home to the unpredictable conditions of the outdoors. Indoor seedlings are used to stable temperatures, indirect light, and no wind, so sudden exposure to the garden can cause shock, stunting growth or even killing them. Hardening off builds their resilience over 7–14 days.

Steps to Harden Off Seedlings

Step 1: Plan the Timing

• When to start: Begin hardening off 1–2 weeks before your seedlings’ planned transplant date, typically after the last frost date for your area. Check your local frost dates (e.g., via the USDA Hardiness Zone map or a local gardening resource).
• Ideal conditions: Choose a mild, overcast day to start, with temperatures above 45°F (7°C) and no strong winds or heavy rain forecast.

Step 2: Start with Short Outdoor Exposure

• Day 1–2: Place seedlings in a shaded, sheltered spot outdoors (e.g., under a porch or tree) for 1–2 hours. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch tender leaves.
• Location tips: A spot protected from wind is ideal. Use a table or raised surface to keep seedlings off the ground and away from pests.

Step 3: Gradually Increase Exposure

• Day 3–5: Increase outdoor time by 1–2 hours each day, slowly introducing filtered sunlight. For example:
  • Day 3: 3–4 hours in shade with a bit of morning sun.
  • Day 4: 4–5 hours with more morning sun.
  • Day 5: 5–6 hours, including some direct sunlight if the seedlings tolerate it.
• Monitor closely: Watch for signs of stress, like wilting or leaf burn. If seedlings struggle, reduce exposure and try again the next day.

Step 4: Introduce Full Sun and Overnight Stays

• Day 6–8: Move seedlings to areas with more direct sunlight for 6–8 hours daily. By day 7 or 8, leave them out all day if weather permits.
• Overnight prep: On day 8 or 9, leave seedlings outside overnight if temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C) and no frost is forecast. For cold-sensitive plants (e.g., tomatoes, peppers), wait until nighttime lows are consistently warmer.

Step 5: Simulate Outdoor Conditions Indoors (Optional)

• If outdoor weather is uncooperative (e.g., heavy rain or cold snaps), mimic outdoor conditions indoors:
  • Use a fan to simulate wind, strengthening stems.
  • Reduce watering slightly to prepare seedlings for less consistent moisture.
  • Lower indoor temperatures slightly (e.g., open a window or turn down the heat).

Step 6: Transplant After Full Acclimation

• Day 10–14: Once seedlings can handle full days and nights outdoors, they’re ready to transplant. Choose an overcast day or late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
• Transplant tips:
  • Water seedlings well before transplanting.
  • Dig holes slightly larger than the root ball and amend soil if needed.
  • Water thoroughly after planting and monitor for the first week.

Tips for Success

• Check plant-specific needs: Some seedlings (e.g., brassicas) tolerate cooler temperatures, while others (e.g., eggplants) need warmer conditions. Research your plants’ preferences.
• Use cold frames or cloches: These can extend hardening off in cooler climates by providing a buffer against cold nights.
• Water wisely: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged during hardening off. Outdoor conditions dry out pots faster than indoors.
• Be patient: Rushing the process risks weak plants. If weather turns bad, pause and resume when conditions improve.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping the process: Planting seedlings straight from indoors to the garden almost always leads to shock or death.
• Too much sun too soon: Direct sunlight can burn leaves before plants are ready. Always start in shade.
• Ignoring weather forecasts: A sudden frost or heatwave can undo your progress. Plan around the 10-day forecast.
• Overwatering: Seedlings need less water as they adjust to outdoor conditions.

Why Hardening Off Matters
Hardening off is like training for a marathon—you wouldn’t run 26 miles without building up stamina first. By gradually exposing seedlings to outdoor stressors, you’re helping them develop stronger stems, thicker leaves, and robust root systems. This sets them up for a productive growing season, whether you’re cultivating tomatoes, zinnias, or kale.

Final Thoughts
Hardening off seedlings is a simple but critical step for gardening success. With 7–14 days of careful attention, your plants will be ready to thrive in their new outdoor home. Take it slow, stay observant, and enjoy watching your seedlings transform into sturdy, garden-ready plants. Happy gardening!

Have questions or tips about hardening off? Share them in the comments below or connect with us on Facebook for more gardening advice!