As the temperatures drop and the days grow shorter, many gardeners reach for their rakes and pruning shears, ready to tidy up for winter. But before you bag up those leaves or cut back every plant, it’s worth asking — is a spotless garden really the healthiest choice for your landscape?
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This fall, consider a gentler approach: leaving the leaves and seed heads where they naturally fall. Not only does this reduce your workload, it also supports the complex ecosystem living right in your own backyard.

Why “Messy” Gardens Are Healthier Gardens

​When we rake, bag, and haul off every leaf, we remove a crucial layer of habitat and nutrients. In nature, fallen leaves decompose slowly, feeding the soil and sheltering countless small creatures. By mimicking this natural process, we help our gardens thrive year after year.

“A little garden mess today means a healthier, more balanced garden tomorrow.”

​Benefits of Letting Nature Do the Work:

• Leaf litter feeds the soil. As leaves break down, they enrich the soil with organic matter, improving texture, drainage, and moisture retention. Earthworms and microbes feast on this material, turning it into natural fertilizer.
• Pollinators find winter homes. Many native bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects overwinter in leaf litter, hollow stems, and seed heads. Cleaning up too soon can destroy these hidden refuges.
• Birds benefit from seeds and shelter. Leaving flower heads from coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and ornamental grasses provides a vital winter food source for songbirds — and adds beautiful texture to your winter garden.

 Meet the Hidden Garden Helpers

Your “messy” garden isn’t abandoned — it’s alive!
Under those leaves, you’ll find:

• The pupae of swallowtail and fritillary butterflies
• Lady beetles waiting out the cold
• Solitary bees tucked into hollow stems

Even toads, lizards, and small mammals rely on leaf litter for warmth and protection through the winter months. These quiet corners of your garden become vital sanctuaries during cold weather.

A Balanced Approach to Fall Cleanup

ou don’t have to choose between beauty and biodiversity. A few small changes can keep your garden looking cared-for while still supporting nature’s cycle:

• Rake leaves off the lawn to prevent smothering, but move them under shrubs, trees, or into beds as mulch.
• Chop large, matted leaves with your mower to speed up decomposition.
• Leave seed heads on native perennials until late winter — trim them just before new growth emerges.
• Create a “wild corner.” Dedicate one area of your yard to natural decomposition and wildlife shelter.

“Nature doesn’t waste anything — and neither should we.”

Come Spring, Nature Rewards Patience

By resisting the urge to over-clean this fall, you’re investing in:

• Healthier, more fertile soil
• Stronger plants
• More pollinators and beneficial insects
• A balanced garden ecosystem that sustains itself

When spring arrives, your patience will bloom right along with your flowers.
So this year, put down the rake a little sooner and let nature handle the cleanup. Your garden — and the creatures that call it home — will thank you.

Marion County Master Gardeners
Helping gardeners grow knowledge, community, and native beauty.

Ditch lilies (Hemerocallis fulva),  (aka tawny daylily, orange daylily, tiger lily) is native to China, Japan and Korea and was introduced to North America in the early 19th century. They spread via seed and a network of tuberous roots, and can reproduce and proliferate from a small fragment left behind during removal. Those vibrant orange daylilies that pepper roadsides and abandoned lots, are a familiar sight in many regions. Their bright blooms and hardy nature make them seem like a gardener’s dream—low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, and practically indestructible. But beneath their cheerful facade lies a host of problems that can turn a well-meaning planting into a landscaping nightmare. Here’s why ditch lilies might not be the carefree addition to your garden you thought they were.
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1. Invasive Tendencies
Ditch lilies are notorious for their aggressive spread. Originally introduced from Asia to North America as ornamental plants, they’ve escaped cultivation and naturalized in many areas, earning their “ditch” moniker for thriving in neglected spaces. Their thick, tuberous roots form dense mats that can choke out native plants and disrupt local ecosystems. In some regions, they’re considered invasive, outcompeting grasses, wildflowers, and even small shrubs for space, water, and nutrients. If you plant them in your yard, you might soon find them taking over areas you didn’t intend, spreading far beyond their original bed. Considered an invasive perennial in the Mid-Atlantic region by the US Fish & Wildlife Service and the National Park Service, the common daylily naturalizes in the wild and displaces our native plants.​

​2. Difficult to Eradicate
Once ditch lilies take hold, good luck getting rid of them. Their robust root systems are a gardener’s nightmare—digging them up feels like unearthing a network of stubborn cables. Miss even a small piece of root, and they’ll sprout back with a vengeance. Herbicides can work, but they often require multiple applications and can harm nearby plants or soil health. For organic gardeners, removal is a backbreaking, multi-season ordeal, making ditch lilies a commitment you might regret.

3. Limited Bloom Time
While their flowers are undeniably striking, ditch lilies have a short bloom period—typically a few weeks in early summer. Each flower lasts only a day (hence the name “daylily”), and once the show is over, you’re left with a mass of strappy, sprawling foliage that can look messy if not maintained. Unlike modern daylily cultivars bred for extended bloom times or repeat flowering, ditch lilies offer a brief performance followed by months of uninspiring greenery.

4. Competition with Other Plants
Ditch lilies don’t play well with others. Their dense growth habits make them poor companions for more delicate perennials or plants that need breathing room. They’ll crowd out neighbors, monopolizing resources and creating monocultures in your garden. If you’re aiming for a diverse, balanced landscape, ditch lilies can throw everything off-kilter, turning your carefully planned beds into an orange takeover.

5. Aesthetic Monotony
Let’s talk looks. While some gardeners love the rustic charm of ditch lilies, others find their uniformity boring. Unlike hybrid daylilies, which come in a rainbow of colors, shapes, and sizes, ditch lilies are stuck in one gear: orange. Their predictable appearance can feel one-dimensional, especially in gardens where variety and texture are priorities. If you’re after a dynamic design, these lilies might feel like a missed opportunity.

6. Potential for Misidentification
For foragers or wildlife enthusiasts, ditch lilies pose another issue: they’re sometimes confused with edible plants like cattails or true lilies, which can lead to accidental ingestion. While ditch lilies aren’t highly toxic, they’re not edible either—eating them can cause stomach upset in humans and pets. Their prevalence in wild areas increases the risk of mix-ups, especially for those unfamiliar with plant identification.

Alternatives to Ditch Lilies
If you love the idea of daylilies but want to avoid the pitfalls of ditch lilies, consider modern cultivars like ‘Stella d’Oro’ or ‘Happy Returns’, which offer longer blooms, varied colors, and less aggressive growth. Native plants like black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) or coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) can also bring vibrant color and resilience to your garden while supporting local pollinators and ecosystems.

Final Thoughts
Ditch lilies may seem like an easy win for a low-maintenance garden, but their invasive nature, relentless spread, and limited appeal make them a risky choice. Before planting, weigh the long-term consequences against their fleeting charm. A little research now can save you years of battling an orange invasion. For gardeners looking to create sustainable, diverse landscapes, there are far better options that won’t leave you digging up regrets.

Have you dealt with ditch lilies in your garden? Share your tips for managing them—or your favorite alternatives—in the comments!

Starting seeds indoors is a rewarding way to kick off the gardening season, but before your seedlings can thrive outdoors, they need to be properly acclimated to the elements. This process, called hardening off, gradually introduces tender seedlings to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations. Done right, it ensures your plants are strong and ready to flourish. Here’s a step-by-step guide to hardening off seedlings effectively.

What Is Hardening Off?
Hardening off is the process of transitioning seedlings from the controlled, sheltered environment of your home to the unpredictable conditions of the outdoors. Indoor seedlings are used to stable temperatures, indirect light, and no wind, so sudden exposure to the garden can cause shock, stunting growth or even killing them. Hardening off builds their resilience over 7–14 days.

Steps to Harden Off Seedlings

Step 1: Plan the Timing

• When to start: Begin hardening off 1–2 weeks before your seedlings’ planned transplant date, typically after the last frost date for your area. Check your local frost dates (e.g., via the USDA Hardiness Zone map or a local gardening resource).
• Ideal conditions: Choose a mild, overcast day to start, with temperatures above 45°F (7°C) and no strong winds or heavy rain forecast.

Step 2: Start with Short Outdoor Exposure

• Day 1–2: Place seedlings in a shaded, sheltered spot outdoors (e.g., under a porch or tree) for 1–2 hours. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch tender leaves.
• Location tips: A spot protected from wind is ideal. Use a table or raised surface to keep seedlings off the ground and away from pests.

Step 3: Gradually Increase Exposure

• Day 3–5: Increase outdoor time by 1–2 hours each day, slowly introducing filtered sunlight. For example:
  • Day 3: 3–4 hours in shade with a bit of morning sun.
  • Day 4: 4–5 hours with more morning sun.
  • Day 5: 5–6 hours, including some direct sunlight if the seedlings tolerate it.
• Monitor closely: Watch for signs of stress, like wilting or leaf burn. If seedlings struggle, reduce exposure and try again the next day.

Step 4: Introduce Full Sun and Overnight Stays

• Day 6–8: Move seedlings to areas with more direct sunlight for 6–8 hours daily. By day 7 or 8, leave them out all day if weather permits.
• Overnight prep: On day 8 or 9, leave seedlings outside overnight if temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C) and no frost is forecast. For cold-sensitive plants (e.g., tomatoes, peppers), wait until nighttime lows are consistently warmer.

Step 5: Simulate Outdoor Conditions Indoors (Optional)

• If outdoor weather is uncooperative (e.g., heavy rain or cold snaps), mimic outdoor conditions indoors:
  • Use a fan to simulate wind, strengthening stems.
  • Reduce watering slightly to prepare seedlings for less consistent moisture.
  • Lower indoor temperatures slightly (e.g., open a window or turn down the heat).

Step 6: Transplant After Full Acclimation

• Day 10–14: Once seedlings can handle full days and nights outdoors, they’re ready to transplant. Choose an overcast day or late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
• Transplant tips:
  • Water seedlings well before transplanting.
  • Dig holes slightly larger than the root ball and amend soil if needed.
  • Water thoroughly after planting and monitor for the first week.

Tips for Success

• Check plant-specific needs: Some seedlings (e.g., brassicas) tolerate cooler temperatures, while others (e.g., eggplants) need warmer conditions. Research your plants’ preferences.
• Use cold frames or cloches: These can extend hardening off in cooler climates by providing a buffer against cold nights.
• Water wisely: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged during hardening off. Outdoor conditions dry out pots faster than indoors.
• Be patient: Rushing the process risks weak plants. If weather turns bad, pause and resume when conditions improve.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping the process: Planting seedlings straight from indoors to the garden almost always leads to shock or death.
• Too much sun too soon: Direct sunlight can burn leaves before plants are ready. Always start in shade.
• Ignoring weather forecasts: A sudden frost or heatwave can undo your progress. Plan around the 10-day forecast.
• Overwatering: Seedlings need less water as they adjust to outdoor conditions.

Why Hardening Off Matters
Hardening off is like training for a marathon—you wouldn’t run 26 miles without building up stamina first. By gradually exposing seedlings to outdoor stressors, you’re helping them develop stronger stems, thicker leaves, and robust root systems. This sets them up for a productive growing season, whether you’re cultivating tomatoes, zinnias, or kale.

Final Thoughts
Hardening off seedlings is a simple but critical step for gardening success. With 7–14 days of careful attention, your plants will be ready to thrive in their new outdoor home. Take it slow, stay observant, and enjoy watching your seedlings transform into sturdy, garden-ready plants. Happy gardening!

Have questions or tips about hardening off? Share them in the comments below or connect with us on Facebook for more gardening advice!

​The Marion County Master Gardeners met Saturday, March 1 for their regular business meeting.

The meeting was called to order at 9:01 am by President Linda Pitts. The group went over the status of their Garden Projects around the county, including: Have A Heart Pet Shelter Garden; Marion County Courthouse Garden; the Garden at Harps / Breadeaux in Yellville; the Yellville City Park Pavilion Garden; the Marion County Extension Office Butterfly Garden; and the Butterfly Garden at the James A. Gaston Visitor's Center in Bull Shoals. Work days were scheduled for several of the gardens to prepare them for spring.

The group discussed the upcoming Annual Plant & Bake Sale which will be held Friday, April 18th at the Pavilion in Yellville City Park. Doors will open at 7:30 am with sales continuing until sold out. There will be garden vegetable starts, native plants, berry bushes, houseplants, perennials, ornamentals, flowers, shrubs, herbs, succulents, garden art, gardening books and much more.

The group will also have a bake sale with cakes, cupcakes, cookies, cinnamon rolls, coffee, and more. In addition, there will be an "Arkansas Auction" for some very nice garden prizes. The sale will be held rain or shine. The public is encouraged to shop early as the sale usually sells out quickly. Cash, checks, and cards will be accepted.

Vice President Rick Tenison led a discussion on tips for best success in starting seeds and potting up plants for the continuing education portion of the meeting.

The next meeting will be held at Yellville City Park under the Pavilion on Saturday, April 12th. The group will meet at 8am for a workday in the Park Garden Project to pot up daylilies and canna lilies, as well as weed and spread mulch. The business meeting will begin at 9am. Meetings are open to anyone interested in gardening.

Master Gardeners are trained volunteers who work in partnership with their county Cooperative Extension Office to extend research-based gardening information throughout the community.

For more information about Marion County Master Gardeners, visit www.MarionCountyMasterGardeners.com or call the Marion County Cooperative Extension Office at 870-449-6349.

By Montie McKinney
Marion County Master Gardeners

The urge to get your “garden on” has begun to creep into every gardener’s blood. It is still cold, but we still want to start planting. So, let me think, “What can I plant in February in Arkansas?” Why not try your hand at Strawberries?

Strawberries are the first edible fruit produced in the spring in many gardens in Arkansas. They prefer a sandy loam soil that drains quickly, but they can adapt to almost any soil type. If planting in the ground, I suggest getting your soil tested at the County Cooperative Extension Office to see if you need to add anything to the soil so that your strawberries thrive.

Strawberries do better in a raised bed, which allows for drainage to be optimal as strawberries do not like “wet feet”. Work the soil so that it is loose and without clumps. The site you choose should also get a minimum of 6 hours of good sunlight. Besides not liking “wet feet” strawberries do not like to be overcrowded. Plant strawberries by making mounds about 5-6 inches high and 6-12 inches wide and give at least 18 inches between plants.

At time of planting, one could use an all-around fertilizer (if soil test recommends it) of a 10-10-10 fertilizer and work it into the soil. This will last for the growing season and can be reapplied in early September. Mulching with straw or pine needles will help to keep the moisture in and reduce fruit rot. Fruit rot happens when the fruit comes in contact with damp soil.

There are different varieties of strawberries. June Bearing and Ever-Bearing. The June Bearing will give you lots of strawberries at one time. This variety is best for those who are freezing them or making jellies and jams. Don’t be fooled by the name Ever-Bearing. They will give a crop in early summer and again in early fall, with a sporadic sprinkling in between. These berries will be smaller than the June Bearing and will not be as plentiful.

Here are a few varieties that tend to do well in this area:

1) Allstar is a June Bearing variety that is very hardy and disease resistant. This variety tends to be firm in consistency and is extra juicy with a great sweet taste. They are also frost resistant.

2) Cardinal is a June Bearing variety which produces large berries that are deep red in color. This variety does well in warmer climates and is disease resistant. They are an early ripening berry and will produce extra-large berries for 3-4 weeks.

​3) Ozark Beauties is an Ever-Bearing variety that will give you a crop in early summer and again in the fall. They perform best in the cooler climates. The fruit is smaller than the June Bearing varieties, that is firm and sweet. This variety is ideal for container strawberries on your deck.

So, no matter if you are looking to make jellies and jams or just enjoying them in your cereal, fresh strawberries from the garden cannot be beat.

Marion County Master Gardeners meet the second Saturday of each month at the Marion County Fairgrounds at 9am. Meetings are open to the public. For more information on Marion County Master Gardeners, visit www.MarionCountyMasterGardeners.com or call 870-449-6349.

Good morning, fellow gardeners! With February's chill still in the air, it's the perfect time to start planning and preparing your vegetable garden, especially if you're in USDA Hardiness Zone 7. This zone, which includes all but the northernmost parts of Marion County, experiences mild winters with average minimum temperatures ranging from 0 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Here's what you can do to get a head start on your garden:

Indoor Seed Starting
1. Tomatoes and Peppers:

• When: Late February to early March.
• Why: These warm-season crops need a long growing season, and starting them indoors gives them the time they need before transplanting outdoors after the last frost.
• How: Use seed trays or small pots with a good seed-starting mix. Keep them under grow lights or in a sunny window, maintaining soil warmth with a heat mat if possible.

2. Eggplant:

• Similar to tomatoes and peppers, eggplant thrives when started indoors. They require warmth to germinate and grow successfully.

3. Broccoli, Cabbage, and Cauliflower:

• When: Early February.
• Why: These are cool-season crops that can be transplanted into the garden as soon as the weather allows, often around late March or early April.

4. Onions and Leeks:

• Seedlings or sets can be started indoors. They need a good head start before going outside.

5. Herbs like Basil and Parsley:

• Basil especially benefits from an early start indoors, as it dislikes cold soil. Parsley can be slower to germinate so starting early helps.

Direct Sowing Outdoors
1. Peas:

• When: As soon as the soil can be worked, which might be late February to early March in zone 7.
• Why: Peas are hardy and can tolerate light frosts. They'll give you an early spring harvest if planted now.

2. Spinach, Lettuce, and Other Greens:

• These can be sown directly if you're in a warmer microclimate or if you use row covers to protect against frost. Otherwise, consider starting them in a cold frame or under cloches.

3. Radishes:

• Radishes are quick to grow and can be planted directly into the garden soil. They're perfect for filling in gaps or for an early harvest.

Tips for February Planting in Zone 7:

• Soil Preparation: Work on enhancing your soil now. Add compost or aged manure to your beds to enrich the soil for spring planting.
• Mulching: Mulch bare soil to prevent weeds and to keep the soil from eroding during winter rains.
• Protecting Plants: If you do plant outdoors, be ready with frost protection like row covers, cloches, or even old bed sheets for unexpected cold snaps.
• Monitor Weather: Keep an eye on the weather forecast. Even in zone 7, unexpected frosts can affect your seedlings.

Final Thoughts
February is about setting the stage for a productive garden season. By starting seeds indoors, you extend your growing season, and by planting some hardy vegetables outdoors, you can enjoy some of the earliest harvests. Remember, gardening is part science, part art, and wholly rewarding. Happy planting, and here's to a bountiful gardening year!

If you need more specific advice or have questions about particular varieties or garden layouts, feel free to ask or stop by the Marion County Extension Office in Yellville at 313 West 7th Street, behind the nursing home.