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Growing Onions on Marion County

1/12/2026

By Rick Tenison
Marion County Master Gardeners

Why Onion Type Matters
Onions form bulbs based on day length, not temperature. Choosing the correct type is the single most important factor for success.

Short-Day Onions

Start bulbing at 10–12 hours of daylight
Best for the South and lower Midwest
Produce bulbs earlier in the season
Excellent choice for Marion County

Intermediate-Day Onions

Start bulbing at 12–14 hours of daylight
Work well in the middle of the country
Slightly later harvest than short-day
Also a good option for Marion County

Long-Day Onions

Require 14–16 hours of daylight
Best for northern states
In Arkansas, they often fail to bulb properly
Not recommended here

Bottom line:
👉 Short-day and intermediate-day onions work best in Marion County, AR because our day length triggers bulbing at the right time, before heat stress sets in.

When to Plant

Plant onion plants, not seeds, for best results
Ideal planting window: late January through February
Onions tolerate light frost and prefer cool early growth

Soil & Bed Preparation

Loose, well-drained soil is critical
Raised beds work exceptionally well
Target soil pH: 6.0–6.8
Mix in compost, but avoid fresh manure

Spacing

4–6 inches apart for medium to large bulbs
Rows 12–18 inches apart
Plant shallow: roots covered, bulb top at soil surface

Fertilization Basics
Onions are heavy feeders, especially nitrogen early on.

Early Growth (first 6–8 weeks):

Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer
Feed every 2–3 weeks
Strong leaf growth = larger bulbs later

Bulb Formation:

Reduce nitrogen once bulbing starts
Stop fertilizing when bulbs begin swelling
⚠️ Too much nitrogen late in the season leads to poor storage quality.

Watering

Consistent moisture is key
About 1 inch of water per week
Avoid water stress during bulbing
Reduce watering as tops fall over before harvest

Harvest & Curing

Harvest when tops fall over naturally
Pull bulbs and cure in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area
Cure for 2–3 weeks
Trim tops and roots after curing

Storage Tips

Store only fully cured onions
Cool, dry location with good airflow
Short-day onions generally store a few months
Intermediate-day onions store longer
90% of the yellow onions sold in grocery stores are ‘Yellow Globe’ or ‘Spanish’ onions (Patterson or Copra), also known as storage onions, primarily long-day onions.
White Sweet Spanish is the common white onion.
Red Wing and Red Baron are common commercial red onions.
“Sweet Onions” do not store well - Vidalia, Walla Walla, Texas Super Sweet. We recommend freezing for long-term storage.

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Winter Sowing in Marion County: A Simple, Low Cost Way to Start Strong Seedlings

11/21/2025

As the days grow shorter and the Ozarks settle into winter, gardeners across Marion County begin dreaming of spring blooms and fresh vegetables. One of the easiest and most reliable ways to get a jump start on the growing season is winter sowing. This method uses recycled containers and the natural rhythm of the weather to germinate seeds outdoors.

Winter sowing is perfect for both new and experienced gardeners because it requires very little equipment, no grow lights, and produces seedlings that are naturally hardened off and ready for Arkansas spring planting.

What Is Winter Sowing
Winter sowing is a technique where seeds are planted in vented, enclosed containers such as milk jugs, juice jugs, rotisserie chicken containers, or clear totes, and then placed outside for the winter.

The containers act like miniature greenhouses and allow moisture, light, and cold air to reach the seeds while still protecting them from harsh weather and animals.
As temperatures gradually warm in late February and March, the seeds germinate on their own schedule. The result is often earlier and stronger growth than indoor seedlings.

Why Winter Sowing Works So Well in Marion County
Marion County sits in USDA Zone 7, which means:

We reliably receive cold periods that help break seed dormancy.
Winter temperatures fluctuate enough to trigger natural germination cues.
Spring warms early enough for winter sown seedlings to be ready for transplant by late March or April.

Winter sowing can save gardeners space, time, and electricity. It also produces tough, climate adapted seedlings that transition easily into Ozark soils.

Best Seeds for Winter Sowing in Marion County
Some seeds thrive under winter sowing conditions while others are better started indoors. The lists below highlight what performs especially well in our area.

Perennial Flowers That Winter Sow Well
Perennials often require a cold period to germinate, which makes them excellent candidates for winter sowing.

Coneflowers (Echinacea)
Black eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Milkweed (all native species)
Coreopsis
Shasta Daisy
Yarrow
Gaillardia
Bee Balm (Monarda)
Hardy Salvias

Winter sowing native perennials is one of the easiest ways to build pollinator gardens for spring.

Cool Season Vegetables
These crops handle freeze and thaw cycles and sprout when the weather warms.

Kale
Cabbage
Broccoli
Cauliflower
Collards
Spinach
Lettuce
Swiss Chard
Mustard greens
Peas

Many of these will sprout early and give you a head start for spring.

Herbs That Winter Sow Well

Oregano
Thyme
Sage
Chives
Parsley
Lavender
Mint
Lemon balm

Annual Flowers That Perform Well

Snapdragons
Pansies and Violas
Calendula
Larkspur
Sweet Peas
Bachelor’s Buttons
Marigolds planted in late winter
Petunias
Cleome
Nigella

Ornamental Grasses

Little Bluestem
Big Bluestem
Sideoats Grama
Switchgrass
Prairie Dropseed
Mexican Feather Grass

Seeds That Are Not Recommended for Winter Sowing
Some seeds prefer warm soil and more stable temperatures. These are better started indoors in Marion County.

Tomatoes
Peppers
Eggplant
Basil
Cucumbers
Squash
Melons
Okra

Some gardeners experiment with late winter sowing in February for tomatoes or peppers, but success is inconsistent.

When to Winter Sow in Marion County
You can begin winter sowing anytime after Christmas. A simple guideline is below:

December and January Native plants, perennials, hardy annuals
Late January through February Cool season vegetables and most herbs
February Flowers that do not need deep cold such as marigolds and snapdragons
Early March Tender annuals, although results vary

How to Winter Sow: Simple Step by Step

Choose your container
Milk jugs, two liter bottles, salad containers, or clear totes all work.
Cut and vent
Cut a hinge in the jug if using one
Drill drainage holes on the bottom and ventilation holes near the top.
Add soil
Use three to four inches of quality potting mix rather than garden soil.
Sow seeds
Follow packet depth instructions. Many perennials prefer to be surface sown.
Water well
Soil should be moist but not soggy.
Seal the container
Use duct tape or clips and keep vents open.
Set the containers outside
Choose a spot with sunlight and normal exposure to rain and snow.
Let nature do the work
Seeds will germinate as temperatures warm.

Why Marion County Gardeners Love Winter Sowing

It is inexpensive.
No lights or indoor space are needed.
It is perfect for starting large quantities of plants for swaps or our Master Gardener spring sales.
Seedlings are hardy and resilient because they germinate outdoors.
It follows the natural germination cycle of many Ozark native plants.

Final Thoughts
Winter sowing is a low stress, high reward method that fits beautifully with our climate in the Arkansas Ozarks. Whether you want pollinator friendly perennials, cool season vegetables, or long lasting herbs, this technique helps you grow strong, healthy plants without the challenges of indoor seed starting.

If you try winter sowing this year, share your progress and photos with the Marion County Master Gardeners. We enjoy seeing the creative containers, successful seedlings, and the beautiful gardens they grow into.

'Lasagna Gardening' - Also known as Sheet Composting

11/14/2025

By Ilene Rountree
Marion County Master Gardener

How many of you buy your own soil? Anyone here want to turn their dirt into garden soil? I would like to share how I start my new beds, in ground beds and add to my existing garden beds. Have any of you tried Lasagna Gardening? Sounds yummy, doesn’t it? Well it will be when you harvest all your veggies.

Let’s just see how many of you already have what you need to get started.

Who shops on Amazon? I can assume you have cardboard.
Who receives junk mail, newspaper or uses paper towels? You have paper.
Who has trees? You have leaves, sticks, possible saw dust or wood chips.
How about old potting soil or wood ash? Consider using them.
Dirt. It can be sandy, silt or clay. I try to add a little of each to my beds.

These are all considered Browns or Carbon. Good radio would be 60% to 70

Photo of a pile of cardboard boxes.

Who mows grass? Save your clippings.
Anyone drink coffee or tea? Consider a small compost bin on your counter.
Eats fruit or veggies? Save everything except the seeds. I cut into pieces.
Eats eggs? I wash shells, dry in microwave, use bullet to make powder.
Garden vegetation. Start cutting the old stuff.
Who raises Chickens, Rabbits or Turkeys? Collect that manure.

These are all considered Greens or Nitrogen. Good radio would be 30% to 40%
How many of you already have most of these items or know someone who does? Okay, we are on a roll.

Photo of someone raking up grass clippings.

I typically start my new beds and add to my existing beds in fall.

Mainly because that is when I have so many resources available.
Spring garden beds are empty; the soil needs to be amended.
Set aside these items to include when your fall beds have finished producing.
This allows everything to compost before spring time.

Now the fun begins

Pick your location.
Water access is important.
Best to pull all the weeds and grass out. Level location best you can.
Remove as many rocks as possible.
Stop growing rocks.
Buy or make your beds.
Raised beds can be: Galvanized, concert blocks, rocks or wood.
Dig into the ground 12” to 18” for in ground beds and remove dirt.

Photo of ground prepared for planting.

Very important to remember, this is how I layer my beds. You get to choose what works best for your garden beds. If you do not have all of these items, no big deal. Use what you have. I usually alternate between brown and green. Using more browns than greens. Things that take longer to compost should be put on the bottom. This is what I usually do and it seems to work well for my gardens. This of course depends on your bed size. Most of mine are 2 feet high.

1st layer. 2”- 3” branches cut in different sizes. Add smaller sticks on top. (Brown)
2nd layer. Cut or rip up cardboard into small pieces. Spray water. (Brown)
3rd layer. Manure. I use turkey litter. Spray water. (Green)
4th layer. Leaves. Run them over with lawnmower 3 times. Spray water. (Brown)
5th layer. Food scraps, tea bags and coffee grounds. Spray water. (Green)
6th Layer. Saw dust or 1“of wood chips or shredded paper. Spray water. (Brown)
7th Layer. Grass clippings or leftover garden vegetation. Spray water. (Green)
8th Layer. Empty all your container pots. Or use peat moss. Spray water. (Brown)
9th Layer. Compost. Spray water. (Green)
10th Layer. Add any dirt you have on hand. Spray water. (Brown)
11th Layer. Sprinkle thin layer of your egg shell powder. Spray water. (Calcium)

Photo of Layers 1 thru 8 of the Lasagna Garden method

Photo of Layers 9 thru 11 of the Lasagna Garden method

On warm fall/winter days. Spray water to help everything to compost.
You can also add food scraps, just use shovel or rake to mix in.
Don’t forget to get your soil tested in the early spring so you can add anything that you might need to allow it to commingle with your soil.
Remember your beds will have settled some so you will have room to add some fresh compost. Mix in with shovel or rake. Spray water.
Lots of veggies like to be planted with a little of that egg shell powder.

Happy gardening. Hope you are able to use a few of these tips in your gardens.

Photo of Ilene's garden filled with raised beds created by the Lasagna Garden method.

Fall Cleanup vs. Leaving the Leaves: What’s Best for Your Garden Ecosystem?

11/7/2025

Photo: Autumn garden bed with colorful fallen leaves under trees

Photo: Autumn garden bed with colorful fallen leaves under trees

As the temperatures drop and the days grow shorter, many gardeners reach for their rakes and pruning shears, ready to tidy up for winter. But before you bag up those leaves or cut back every plant, it’s worth asking — is a spotless garden really the healthiest choice for your landscape?

This fall, consider a gentler approach: leaving the leaves and seed heads where they naturally fall. Not only does this reduce your workload, it also supports the complex ecosystem living right in your own backyard.

Why “Messy” Gardens Are Healthier Gardens

Photo: Fallen oak leaves creating natural mulch in a flower bed

Photo: Fallen oak leaves creating natural mulch in a flower bed

When we rake, bag, and haul off every leaf, we remove a crucial layer of habitat and nutrients. In nature, fallen leaves decompose slowly, feeding the soil and sheltering countless small creatures. By mimicking this natural process, we help our gardens thrive year after year.

“A little garden mess today means a healthier, more balanced garden tomorrow.”

Benefits of Letting Nature Do the Work:

Leaf litter feeds the soil. As leaves break down, they enrich the soil with organic matter, improving texture, drainage, and moisture retention. Earthworms and microbes feast on this material, turning it into natural fertilizer.
Pollinators find winter homes. Many native bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects overwinter in leaf litter, hollow stems, and seed heads. Cleaning up too soon can destroy these hidden refuges.
Birds benefit from seeds and shelter. Leaving flower heads from coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and ornamental grasses provides a vital winter food source for songbirds — and adds beautiful texture to your winter garden.

Meet the Hidden Garden Helpers

Photo: Close-up of a chrysalis among leaf litter or hollow stems

Photo: Close-up of a chrysalis among leaf litter or hollow stems

Your “messy” garden isn’t abandoned — it’s alive!
Under those leaves, you’ll find:

The pupae of swallowtail and fritillary butterflies
Lady beetles waiting out the cold
Solitary bees tucked into hollow stems

Even toads, lizards, and small mammals rely on leaf litter for warmth and protection through the winter months. These quiet corners of your garden become vital sanctuaries during cold weather.

A Balanced Approach to Fall Cleanup

Photo: Gardener using mower to mulch leaves in a tidy border

Photo: Gardener using mower to mulch leaves in a tidy border

ou don’t have to choose between beauty and biodiversity. A few small changes can keep your garden looking cared-for while still supporting nature’s cycle:

Rake leaves off the lawn to prevent smothering, but move them under shrubs, trees, or into beds as mulch.
Chop large, matted leaves with your mower to speed up decomposition.
Leave seed heads on native perennials until late winter — trim them just before new growth emerges.
Create a “wild corner.” Dedicate one area of your yard to natural decomposition and wildlife shelter.

“Nature doesn’t waste anything — and neither should we.”

Come Spring, Nature Rewards Patience

Photo: Early spring perennials emerging from last year’s leaf mulch

Photo: Early spring perennials emerging from last year’s leaf mulch

By resisting the urge to over-clean this fall, you’re investing in:

Healthier, more fertile soil
Stronger plants
More pollinators and beneficial insects
A balanced garden ecosystem that sustains itself

When spring arrives, your patience will bloom right along with your flowers.
So this year, put down the rake a little sooner and let nature handle the cleanup. Your garden — and the creatures that call it home — will thank you.

Marion County Master Gardeners
Helping gardeners grow knowledge, community, and native beauty.

Photo: Frost-kissed seed heads and golden grass in a native garden

Photo: Frost-kissed seed heads and golden grass in a native garden

Preventing Blossom End Rot After Heavy Rains

6/2/2025

Hey Gardeners! After heavy rain, remember to fertilize garden plants prone to blossom end rot, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash, and melons, to replenish leached nutrients. Use an all-purpose fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio like 5-10-10 or 10-20-20 to prioritize potassium and phosphorus for fruit development while keeping nitrogen moderate to avoid excessive foliage growth.

To address calcium deficiency, a key cause of blossom end rot, apply bone meal (organic, ~3-4 tbsp per plant, worked into soil) or calcium nitrate (non-organic, ~1-2 tbsp per gallon of water as a foliar spray or soil drench). Test soil pH and nutrient levels first—ideally with IoT soil sensors or portable testers—to confirm deficiencies, as heavy rain can alter soil chemistry.

Ensure consistent irrigation to aid calcium uptake, using smart irrigation systems if available, as uneven moisture can worsen blossom end rot. For organic growers, crushed eggshells or gypsum are additional calcium sources. Monitor weather and soil data via apps or connected devices to optimize timing and prevent over-fertilization.

Mulch also helps prevent blossom end rot in plants like tomatoes by retaining soil moisture, reducing fluctuations that hinder calcium uptake. It regulates soil temperature, promotes nutrient absorption, and suppresses weeds, ensuring plants access essential nutrients to minimize rot.

Personally I am liking the fine shaved bedding for rabbits. The larger is okay, but takes a lot longer to break down. Straw is good as well, but grass clippings in my opinion might be a bit green or have seeds, anything keeping the roots cooler and consistent watering is better than nothing.

-- Rick Tenison
Master Gardener

The Problem with Ditch Lilies: A Gardener’s Cautionary Tale

4/28/2025

Ditch lilies (Hemerocallis fulva), (aka tawny daylily, orange daylily, tiger lily) is native to China, Japan and Korea and was introduced to North America in the early 19th century. They spread via seed and a network of tuberous roots, and can reproduce and proliferate from a small fragment left behind during removal. Those vibrant orange daylilies that pepper roadsides and abandoned lots, are a familiar sight in many regions. Their bright blooms and hardy nature make them seem like a gardener’s dream—low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, and practically indestructible. But beneath their cheerful facade lies a host of problems that can turn a well-meaning planting into a landscaping nightmare. Here’s why ditch lilies might not be the carefree addition to your garden you thought they were.

1. Invasive Tendencies
Ditch lilies are notorious for their aggressive spread. Originally introduced from Asia to North America as ornamental plants, they’ve escaped cultivation and naturalized in many areas, earning their “ditch” moniker for thriving in neglected spaces. Their thick, tuberous roots form dense mats that can choke out native plants and disrupt local ecosystems. In some regions, they’re considered invasive, outcompeting grasses, wildflowers, and even small shrubs for space, water, and nutrients. If you plant them in your yard, you might soon find them taking over areas you didn’t intend, spreading far beyond their original bed. Considered an invasive perennial in the Mid-Atlantic region by the US Fish & Wildlife Service and the National Park Service, the common daylily naturalizes in the wild and displaces our native plants.

2. Difficult to Eradicate
Once ditch lilies take hold, good luck getting rid of them. Their robust root systems are a gardener’s nightmare—digging them up feels like unearthing a network of stubborn cables. Miss even a small piece of root, and they’ll sprout back with a vengeance. Herbicides can work, but they often require multiple applications and can harm nearby plants or soil health. For organic gardeners, removal is a backbreaking, multi-season ordeal, making ditch lilies a commitment you might regret.

3. Limited Bloom Time
While their flowers are undeniably striking, ditch lilies have a short bloom period—typically a few weeks in early summer. Each flower lasts only a day (hence the name “daylily”), and once the show is over, you’re left with a mass of strappy, sprawling foliage that can look messy if not maintained. Unlike modern daylily cultivars bred for extended bloom times or repeat flowering, ditch lilies offer a brief performance followed by months of uninspiring greenery.

4. Competition with Other Plants
Ditch lilies don’t play well with others. Their dense growth habits make them poor companions for more delicate perennials or plants that need breathing room. They’ll crowd out neighbors, monopolizing resources and creating monocultures in your garden. If you’re aiming for a diverse, balanced landscape, ditch lilies can throw everything off-kilter, turning your carefully planned beds into an orange takeover.

5. Aesthetic Monotony
Let’s talk looks. While some gardeners love the rustic charm of ditch lilies, others find their uniformity boring. Unlike hybrid daylilies, which come in a rainbow of colors, shapes, and sizes, ditch lilies are stuck in one gear: orange. Their predictable appearance can feel one-dimensional, especially in gardens where variety and texture are priorities. If you’re after a dynamic design, these lilies might feel like a missed opportunity.

6. Potential for Misidentification
For foragers or wildlife enthusiasts, ditch lilies pose another issue: they’re sometimes confused with edible plants like cattails or true lilies, which can lead to accidental ingestion. While ditch lilies aren’t highly toxic, they’re not edible either—eating them can cause stomach upset in humans and pets. Their prevalence in wild areas increases the risk of mix-ups, especially for those unfamiliar with plant identification.

Alternatives to Ditch Lilies
If you love the idea of daylilies but want to avoid the pitfalls of ditch lilies, consider modern cultivars like ‘Stella d’Oro’ or ‘Happy Returns’, which offer longer blooms, varied colors, and less aggressive growth. Native plants like black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) or coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) can also bring vibrant color and resilience to your garden while supporting local pollinators and ecosystems.

Final Thoughts
Ditch lilies may seem like an easy win for a low-maintenance garden, but their invasive nature, relentless spread, and limited appeal make them a risky choice. Before planting, weigh the long-term consequences against their fleeting charm. A little research now can save you years of battling an orange invasion. For gardeners looking to create sustainable, diverse landscapes, there are far better options that won’t leave you digging up regrets.

Have you dealt with ditch lilies in your garden? Share your tips for managing them—or your favorite alternatives—in the comments!

How to Harden Off Seedlings: A Step-by-Step Guide

4/21/2025

Starting seeds indoors is a rewarding way to kick off the gardening season, but before your seedlings can thrive outdoors, they need to be properly acclimated to the elements. This process, called hardening off, gradually introduces tender seedlings to outdoor conditions like sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations. Done right, it ensures your plants are strong and ready to flourish. Here’s a step-by-step guide to hardening off seedlings effectively.

What Is Hardening Off?
Hardening off is the process of transitioning seedlings from the controlled, sheltered environment of your home to the unpredictable conditions of the outdoors. Indoor seedlings are used to stable temperatures, indirect light, and no wind, so sudden exposure to the garden can cause shock, stunting growth or even killing them. Hardening off builds their resilience over 7–14 days.

Steps to Harden Off Seedlings

Step 1: Plan the Timing

When to start: Begin hardening off 1–2 weeks before your seedlings’ planned transplant date, typically after the last frost date for your area. Check your local frost dates (e.g., via the USDA Hardiness Zone map or a local gardening resource).
Ideal conditions: Choose a mild, overcast day to start, with temperatures above 45°F (7°C) and no strong winds or heavy rain forecast.

Step 2: Start with Short Outdoor Exposure

Day 1–2: Place seedlings in a shaded, sheltered spot outdoors (e.g., under a porch or tree) for 1–2 hours. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch tender leaves.
Location tips: A spot protected from wind is ideal. Use a table or raised surface to keep seedlings off the ground and away from pests.

Step 3: Gradually Increase Exposure

Day 3–5: Increase outdoor time by 1–2 hours each day, slowly introducing filtered sunlight. For example:
- Day 3: 3–4 hours in shade with a bit of morning sun.
- Day 4: 4–5 hours with more morning sun.
- Day 5: 5–6 hours, including some direct sunlight if the seedlings tolerate it.
Monitor closely: Watch for signs of stress, like wilting or leaf burn. If seedlings struggle, reduce exposure and try again the next day.

Step 4: Introduce Full Sun and Overnight Stays

Day 6–8: Move seedlings to areas with more direct sunlight for 6–8 hours daily. By day 7 or 8, leave them out all day if weather permits.
Overnight prep: On day 8 or 9, leave seedlings outside overnight if temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C) and no frost is forecast. For cold-sensitive plants (e.g., tomatoes, peppers), wait until nighttime lows are consistently warmer.

Step 5: Simulate Outdoor Conditions Indoors (Optional)

If outdoor weather is uncooperative (e.g., heavy rain or cold snaps), mimic outdoor conditions indoors:
- Use a fan to simulate wind, strengthening stems.
- Reduce watering slightly to prepare seedlings for less consistent moisture.
- Lower indoor temperatures slightly (e.g., open a window or turn down the heat).

Step 6: Transplant After Full Acclimation

Day 10–14: Once seedlings can handle full days and nights outdoors, they’re ready to transplant. Choose an overcast day or late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
Transplant tips:
- Water seedlings well before transplanting.
- Dig holes slightly larger than the root ball and amend soil if needed.
- Water thoroughly after planting and monitor for the first week.

Tips for Success

Check plant-specific needs: Some seedlings (e.g., brassicas) tolerate cooler temperatures, while others (e.g., eggplants) need warmer conditions. Research your plants’ preferences.
Use cold frames or cloches: These can extend hardening off in cooler climates by providing a buffer against cold nights.
Water wisely: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged during hardening off. Outdoor conditions dry out pots faster than indoors.
Be patient: Rushing the process risks weak plants. If weather turns bad, pause and resume when conditions improve.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Skipping the process: Planting seedlings straight from indoors to the garden almost always leads to shock or death.
Too much sun too soon: Direct sunlight can burn leaves before plants are ready. Always start in shade.
Ignoring weather forecasts: A sudden frost or heatwave can undo your progress. Plan around the 10-day forecast.
Overwatering: Seedlings need less water as they adjust to outdoor conditions.

Why Hardening Off Matters
Hardening off is like training for a marathon—you wouldn’t run 26 miles without building up stamina first. By gradually exposing seedlings to outdoor stressors, you’re helping them develop stronger stems, thicker leaves, and robust root systems. This sets them up for a productive growing season, whether you’re cultivating tomatoes, zinnias, or kale.

Final Thoughts
Hardening off seedlings is a simple but critical step for gardening success. With 7–14 days of careful attention, your plants will be ready to thrive in their new outdoor home. Take it slow, stay observant, and enjoy watching your seedlings transform into sturdy, garden-ready plants. Happy gardening!

Have questions or tips about hardening off? Share them in the comments below or connect with us on Facebook for more gardening advice!

What to Plant in Your Zone 7 Vegetable Garden in Mid-April

4/14/2025

Mid-April in USDA Hardiness Zone 7 is a magical time for gardeners. With average minimum temperatures ranging from 0°F to 10°F in winter, this zone—covering parts of the southeastern and central U.S., like North Carolina, Tennessee, and Arkansas—enjoys a relatively mild climate. By mid-April, the last frost date (typically around April 1 to 15 in Zone 7) has likely passed, and soil temperatures are warming up, making it an ideal time to plant a variety of vegetables for a bountiful summer and fall harvest. Let’s dive into what you can plant in your Zone 7 vegetable garden this month to ensure a thriving, productive season.

Understanding Zone 7’s Mid-April Conditions
In Zone 7, mid-April brings daytime temperatures averaging 65°F to 75°F, with nights cooling to around 45°F to 55°F. The soil is warming to at least 50°F, which is perfect for many warm-season crops to germinate and grow. However, it’s always wise to keep an eye on the forecast for any late cold snaps and have row covers or frost cloth on hand, just in case. This time of year also marks the transition from cool-season to warm-season gardening, giving you a wide range of planting options.

Cool-Season Crops to Plant in Mid-April
While the window for cool-season crops is starting to close, there’s still time to sneak in a few fast-maturing varieties that can handle the warming temperatures:

Lettuce and Salad Greens
- Why Plant Now? Varieties like leaf lettuce, arugula, and spinach can still be sown in mid-April for a late spring harvest before the heat sets in.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds directly in the garden, about ¼ inch deep, in well-drained soil with partial shade to protect from the intensifying sun. Harvest as baby greens in 4-6 weeks.
- Pro Tip: Choose heat-tolerant varieties like ‘Black Seeded Simpson’ lettuce to extend your harvest into early summer.
Radishes
- Why Plant Now? Radishes are quick growers, ready to harvest in as little as 3-4 weeks, making them perfect for a fast crop before summer heat arrives.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds ½ inch deep and 1 inch apart in loose, fertile soil. Thin seedlings to 2 inches apart for proper root development.
- Pro Tip: Try ‘Cherry Belle’ or ‘French Breakfast’ for a mild, crisp flavor.
Peas
- Why Plant Now? If you’re quick, you can still plant peas in mid-April for a late spring harvest. They prefer cooler weather but can tolerate the mild temperatures of early spring in Zone 7.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart in full sun or light shade. Provide a trellis for climbing varieties like snap or snow peas.
- Pro Tip: Soak seeds overnight to speed up germination.

Warm-Season Crops to Start in Mid-April
Mid-April is prime time to plant warm-season vegetables that thrive in the heat of summer. These crops will establish strong roots now and produce heavily as temperatures rise.

Tomatoes
- Why Plant Now? Tomatoes love warm weather, and by mid-April, the risk of frost in Zone 7 is minimal, making it safe to plant transplants.
- Planting Tips: Set out hardened-off transplants in full sun, spacing them 2-3 feet apart. Plant deeply—burying the stem up to the first set of leaves—to encourage strong roots.
- Pro Tip: Add a handful of crushed eggshells to the planting hole to provide calcium and prevent blossom end rot.
Peppers
- Why Plant Now? Both sweet and hot peppers thrive in warm soil and long, sunny days, making mid-April an excellent time to plant transplants.
- Planting Tips: Space plants 18-24 inches apart in well-drained soil with full sun. Water consistently to avoid stress, which can lead to blossom drop.
- Pro Tip: Mulch around plants to retain moisture and keep soil temperatures stable.
Beans
- Why Plant Now? Bush and pole beans germinate quickly in warm soil and will produce a steady crop through summer.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2-4 inches apart in full sun. Pole beans will need a trellis or support. Succession plant every 2 weeks for a continuous harvest.
- Pro Tip: Inoculate seeds with rhizobia bacteria to improve nitrogen fixation and boost growth.
Cucumbers
- Why Plant Now? Cucumbers love heat and humidity, which Zone 7 delivers in spades by summer. Planting now ensures a strong start.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds 1 inch deep in hills (4-5 seeds per hill) or rows, spacing hills 3 feet apart. Provide a trellis for vining types to save space.
- Pro Tip: Choose disease-resistant varieties like ‘Marketmore 76’ to combat common cucumber pests.
Summer Squash and Zucchini
- Why Plant Now? These prolific producers thrive in warm weather and will start yielding in about 50-60 days.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds 1 inch deep in hills (3-4 seeds per hill), spacing hills 3-4 feet apart. They need full sun and well-drained soil.
- Pro Tip: Plant marigolds nearby to deter squash bugs and other pests.
Corn
- Why Plant Now? Corn needs warm soil (at least 60°F) to germinate, and mid-April in Zone 7 is perfect for getting a head start.
- Planting Tips: Sow seeds 1-2 inches deep in blocks (not rows) to ensure good pollination, spacing seeds 12 inches apart. Corn is a heavy feeder, so amend soil with compost or a balanced fertilizer.
- Pro Tip: Plant early-maturing varieties like ‘Silver Queen’ for a quicker harvest.

Herbs to Plant in Mid-April
Don’t forget to add some herbs to your Zone 7 garden! Mid-April is a great time to plant:

Basil: Start seeds indoors or plant transplants in full sun. Pinch back to encourage bushy growth.
Dill: Sow seeds directly in the garden; it pairs well with cucumbers for pickling.
Cilantro: Sow seeds now for a late spring harvest before it bolts in the heat.

General Tips for Mid-April Planting in Zone 7

Soil Prep: Work in compost or aged manure to enrich the soil. Most vegetables prefer a pH of 6.0-7.0, so test and amend if needed.
Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially for newly planted seeds and transplants.
Mulching: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (like straw or shredded bark) to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Pest Management: Watch for early pests like aphids or cutworms. Use row covers for protection or introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs.

Planning for Succession and Fall Crops
While you’re planting in mid-April, think ahead to succession planting and fall crops. For example, after harvesting early lettuce or radishes, you can replant those spots with more beans or even start seeds for fall crops like broccoli or kale indoors. Zone 7’s long growing season allows for multiple harvests if you plan wisely.

Final Thoughts
Mid-April in Zone 7 is a time of transition and opportunity in the vegetable garden. By planting a mix of cool-season and warm-season crops now, you’ll set the stage for a productive summer and even into fall. Whether you’re savoring fresh salads in June, grilling zucchini in July, or enjoying sweet corn in August, the seeds and transplants you put in the ground this month will bring joy to your table for months to come. So grab your trowel, soak up the spring sunshine, and get planting—your Zone 7 garden is ready to grow!

What About Fruit?

Mid-April is also generally a good time to plant fruit trees, bushes, and berries in a Zone 7 garden, as the conditions align well with the needs of many fruit-producing plants. Zone 7, with its average minimum winter temperatures of 0°F to 10°F, typically sees the last frost date between April 1 and April 15, meaning by mid-April the risk of frost is low, and soil temperatures are warming up (usually around 50°F to 60°F). This creates a favorable environment for establishing new plants. However, there are some considerations to ensure success, depending on the type of fruit plant and whether you're planting bare-root, container-grown, or balled-and-burlapped stock. Let’s break it down.

Fruit Trees

Fruit trees like apples, pears, peaches, plums, and cherries can be planted in mid-April in Zone 7, especially if you’re working with container-grown or balled-and-burlapped trees. Here’s what to keep in mind:

Why Mid-April Works: By mid-April, the soil is workable, and temperatures are rising, which helps roots establish before the heat of summer. Container-grown trees, in particular, can be planted almost any time the ground isn’t frozen, and mid-April is well within that window in Zone 7.
Best Choices for Zone 7:
- Apples: Varieties like ‘Gala’ or ‘Honeycrisp’ do well in Zone 7. Ensure you plant two different varieties for cross-pollination unless the tree is self-fertile.
- Peaches: ‘Redhaven’ or ‘Elberta’ are great choices, as peaches thrive in Zone 7’s warm summers.
- Pears: ‘Bartlett’ or ‘Kieffer’ are hardy and productive in this zone.
Planting Tips:
- Choose a sunny, well-drained spot—most fruit trees need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
- Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball. Mix compost into the soil to improve drainage and fertility.
- Plant the tree so the graft union (the bulge near the base of the trunk) is 2-3 inches above the soil line.
- Water deeply after planting and mulch with 2-3 inches of organic material (like wood chips) to retain moisture, keeping the mulch away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Considerations: Bare-root trees are often planted earlier, in late winter to early spring (February to early April in Zone 7), because they need cooler temperatures to establish before leafing out. By mid-April, many bare-root trees may already be breaking dormancy, which can make them more susceptible to transplant shock. If you’re set on bare-root, look for ones that are still dormant and plant immediately.

Fruit Bushes
Fruit bushes like blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries can also be planted in mid-April in Zone 7, and this is often an ideal time for container-grown or bare-root plants.

Why Mid-April Works: The warming soil and longer days encourage root growth, and there’s still enough time for the plants to establish before summer heat stresses them. Plus, Zone 7’s long growing season means you might even get a small harvest from some berries by late summer or fall.
Best Choices for Zone 7:
- Blueberries: Opt for rabbiteye varieties like ‘Tifblue’ or ‘Premier’, which are well-suited to Zone 7’s climate. Blueberries need acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5).
- Raspberries: ‘Heritage’ (red) or ‘Anne’ (yellow) are reliable everbearing varieties that produce in summer and fall.
- Blackberries: ‘Navaho’ or ‘Arapaho’ are thornless options that thrive in Zone 7.
Planting Tips:
- Blueberries need well-drained, acidic soil with plenty of organic matter. Mix in peat moss or pine needles to lower the pH if needed, and plant in a sunny spot with some afternoon shade to protect from Zone 7’s hot summers.
- Raspberries and blackberries prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Space plants 2-3 feet apart in rows, and provide a trellis or support system for easier harvesting and better air circulation.
- Soak bare-root plants in water for a few hours before planting to rehydrate them. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the roots without bending them, and spread the roots out in the hole.
- Water thoroughly after planting and mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Considerations: If planting bare-root berries, ensure they’re still dormant or just starting to bud. Container-grown bushes are less finicky and can be planted throughout spring, making mid-April a safe bet.

Strawberries
Strawberries are a fantastic choice for mid-April planting in Zone 7, especially if you’re aiming for a late spring or early summer harvest from everbearing or day-neutral varieties.

Why Mid-April Works: Strawberries can be planted as soon as the soil is workable, and mid-April’s mild temperatures are perfect for getting them established. In Zone 7, you can plant both bare-root and container-grown strawberries now for a harvest this year (especially with everbearing types) and a bigger yield next year.
Best Choices for Zone 7:
- Everbearing: ‘Ozark Beauty’ or ‘Quinault’ produce multiple crops from late spring through fall.
- Day-Neutral: ‘Tristar’ or ‘Seascape’ bear fruit continuously through the growing season, regardless of day length.
Planting Tips:
- Choose a sunny spot with well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5). Amend with compost for fertility.
- For bare-root strawberries, plant so the crown (where the roots meet the leaves) is level with the soil surface. Space plants 12-18 inches apart in rows 2-3 feet apart.
- For container-grown plants, dig a hole the size of the root ball and plant at the same depth as the pot.
- Water well and mulch with straw or pine needles to keep the soil cool and moist, and to keep berries off the ground.
Considerations: Remove flowers on June-bearing varieties planted in spring to encourage stronger root development for next year’s harvest. Everbearing and day-neutral types can be allowed to fruit this season.

General Considerations for Mid-April Planting in Zone 7

Weather Watch: While the last frost date has likely passed, Zone 7 can still see unexpected cold snaps in mid-April. If a frost is forecast, protect newly planted trees, bushes, and berries with frost cloth or burlap.
Watering: Spring rains in Zone 7 can help with establishment, but if the weather turns dry, water deeply and regularly—about 1 inch per week—to help roots settle in.
Soil Prep: Test your soil to ensure it meets the needs of your plants. Most fruit trees and berries prefer a pH of 6.0-6.5, except for blueberries, which need more acidity. Add lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower it, as needed.
Pest and Disease Prevention: Inspect plants for signs of pests or disease before planting. For fruit trees, consider a dormant oil spray (if they’re still dormant) to control overwintering pests. For berries, ensure good air circulation to prevent fungal issues like powdery mildew, which can be a problem in Zone 7’s humid summers.
Timing for Future Harvests: Planting in mid-April gives your fruit plants a head start, but most trees and bushes won’t bear significant fruit for 2-5 years, depending on the type and variety. Strawberries and some raspberries, however, may produce a small crop this year.

Final Thoughts
Mid-April is an excellent time to plant fruit trees, bushes, and berries in Zone 7, as the mild spring weather supports root establishment before the heat of summer. Whether you’re dreaming of crisp apples, juicy peaches, tart blueberries, or sweet strawberries, planting now sets the stage for years of delicious harvests. Just ensure you choose varieties suited to Zone 7, prepare your soil well, and give your new plants the care they need to thrive. With a little effort this spring, your garden will be bursting with homegrown fruit in the seasons to come!

Flower Bulbs to Plant in Spring for Summer and Fall Beauty in the Zone 7 Garden

4/3/2025

If you’re gardening in USDA Hardiness Zone 7, where winters are relatively mild and summers can sizzle, spring is the perfect time to plant bulbs that will reward you with stunning blooms in summer and fall. Zone 7, spanning areas with average minimum temperatures of 0°F to 10°F, offers a long growing season and versatile conditions for a variety of flowering bulbs. By choosing the right bulbs and planting them in spring, you can ensure your garden bursts with color and life well into the warmer months and beyond. Here’s a guide to some of the best flower bulbs to plant now for a spectacular display later in the year.

Why Plant Bulbs in Spring?
While many gardeners associate bulb planting with fall (think tulips and daffodils), there are plenty of bulbs that thrive when planted in spring after the last frost—typically late March to early April in Zone 7. These warm-season bulbs love the rising temperatures and longer days, blooming vibrantly in summer and sometimes stretching their show into fall. Plus, planting in spring gives you a chance to refresh your garden after winter and plan for continuous color.

Top Bulbs for Zone 7 Summer and Fall Beauty

Dahlias
- Bloom Time: Mid-summer to first frost (often October or November in Zone 7)
- Why They Shine: Dahlias are the rockstars of the summer garden, offering an incredible range of sizes, shapes, and colors—from petite pom-poms to dinner-plate-sized blooms in reds, pinks, yellows, and purples.
- Planting Tips: Plant tubers 4-6 inches deep in well-drained soil with full sun. In Zone 7, they can often overwinter with mulch, but dig them up after the first frost if you want to store them for next year.
- Pro Tip: Pinch back the growing tips when plants reach 12 inches for bushier growth and more flowers.
Gladiolus
- Bloom Time: Summer (staggered, depending on planting time)
- Why They Shine: These tall, elegant spikes of flowers bring vertical drama to the garden in shades of pink, orange, white, and even bi-colors. They’re perfect for cutting, too!
- Planting Tips: Plant corms 4 inches deep and 6 inches apart in full sun. For continuous blooms, stagger planting every two weeks from spring through early summer.
- Pro Tip: Stake taller varieties to keep them upright during summer storms common in Zone 7.
Lilies (Asiatic and Oriental)
- Bloom Time: Early summer (Asiatic) to late summer/early fall (Oriental)
- Why They Shine: Lilies offer bold, trumpet-shaped flowers and intoxicating fragrance (especially Orientals). Asiatic lilies bloom earlier and come in vibrant solids, while Orientals extend the season with richer scents and intricate patterns.
- Planting Tips: Plant bulbs 6-8 inches deep in well-drained, slightly acidic soil with morning sun and afternoon shade. They’re hardy in Zone 7 and can stay in the ground year-round.
- Pro Tip: Mulch to keep roots cool during hot Zone 7 summers.
Cannas
- Bloom Time: Mid-summer to fall
- Why They Shine: With their tropical foliage and vivid blooms in red, orange, yellow, or pink, cannas bring an exotic flair to any garden. They’re heat-tolerant and thrive in Zone 7’s warm summers.
- Planting Tips: Plant rhizomes 4 inches deep in full sun and rich, moist soil. Space them 1-2 feet apart to accommodate their bold growth.
- Pro Tip: Pair with shorter plants to showcase their height (up to 6 feet in some varieties).
Crocosmia
- Bloom Time: Late summer to early fall
- Why They Shine: These arching sprays of fiery red, orange, or yellow flowers add a wild, graceful touch to the garden. They’re also hummingbird magnets!
- Planting Tips: Plant corms 3-5 inches deep in full sun or light shade. They’re drought-tolerant once established and can naturalize in Zone 7.
- Pro Tip: Divide clumps every few years to keep them vigorous.

Caring for Your Spring-Planted Bulbs

Soil Prep: Most of these bulbs prefer well-drained soil enriched with compost. Work in organic matter before planting to give them a strong start.
Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged during establishment. Once blooming, many (like crocosmia and cannas) can handle Zone 7’s occasional dry spells.
Fertilizing: Apply a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) at planting and again when shoots emerge for robust growth.
Pest Patrol: Watch for slugs and snails, especially on dahlias and lilies, and use organic deterrents like diatomaceous earth if needed.

Designing Your Zone 7 Garden
Mix these bulbs for a dynamic display. Plant gladiolus and cannas at the back of borders for height, mid-sized dahlias and lilies in the middle, and let crocosmia spill forward or edge pathways. Pair with annuals like zinnias or perennials like coneflowers for a full, lush look. In Zone 7, where frost doesn’t typically hit until November, you’ll enjoy these blooms well into fall with proper care.

Final Thoughts
Spring planting in Zone 7 opens the door to a season of vibrant beauty with bulbs that thrive in warm weather. Whether you’re drawn to the tropical flair of cannas, the elegance of gladiolus, or the fragrance of lilies, there’s a bulb to suit every gardener’s taste. Get those tubers, corms, and bulbs in the ground this spring, and by summer, your garden will be a masterpiece of color and texture—lasting all the way to fall’s golden days. Happy planting!

Marion County Master Gardeners News

3/12/2025

The Marion County Master Gardeners met Saturday, March 1 for their regular business meeting.

The meeting was called to order at 9:01 am by President Linda Pitts. The group went over the status of their Garden Projects around the county, including: Have A Heart Pet Shelter Garden; Marion County Courthouse Garden; the Garden at Harps / Breadeaux in Yellville; the Yellville City Park Pavilion Garden; the Marion County Extension Office Butterfly Garden; and the Butterfly Garden at the James A. Gaston Visitor's Center in Bull Shoals. Work days were scheduled for several of the gardens to prepare them for spring.

The group discussed the upcoming Annual Plant & Bake Sale which will be held Friday, April 18th at the Pavilion in Yellville City Park. Doors will open at 7:30 am with sales continuing until sold out. There will be garden vegetable starts, native plants, berry bushes, houseplants, perennials, ornamentals, flowers, shrubs, herbs, succulents, garden art, gardening books and much more.

The group will also have a bake sale with cakes, cupcakes, cookies, cinnamon rolls, coffee, and more. In addition, there will be an "Arkansas Auction" for some very nice garden prizes. The sale will be held rain or shine. The public is encouraged to shop early as the sale usually sells out quickly. Cash, checks, and cards will be accepted.

Vice President Rick Tenison led a discussion on tips for best success in starting seeds and potting up plants for the continuing education portion of the meeting.

The next meeting will be held at Yellville City Park under the Pavilion on Saturday, April 12th. The group will meet at 8am for a workday in the Park Garden Project to pot up daylilies and canna lilies, as well as weed and spread mulch. The business meeting will begin at 9am. Meetings are open to anyone interested in gardening.

Master Gardeners are trained volunteers who work in partnership with their county Cooperative Extension Office to extend research-based gardening information throughout the community.

For more information about Marion County Master Gardeners, visit www.MarionCountyMasterGardeners.com or call the Marion County Cooperative Extension Office at 870-449-6349.